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By Vivienne Richmond

during this pioneering learn Vivienne Richmond unearths the significance of costume to the nineteenth-century English bad, who valued garments not just for its sensible software, but additionally as a principal aspect within the production and statement of collective and person identities. in this interval of fast industrialisation and urbanisation formal costume codes, company and institutional uniforms, and the unfold of city models changed the casual gown of agricultural England. This laid the rules of recent renowned gown and generated fears concerning the visible blurring of social limitations as new modes of producing and retailing increased the wardrobes of the bulk. in spite of the fact that, an important impoverished minority remained outdoor this procedure. Clothed through diminishing parish information, increasing paternalistic charity and the second-hand exchange, they shaped a 'sartorial underclass' whose fabric deprivation and visible contrast used to be a explanation for actual pain and mental trauma.

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